Of course, the bay has totally changed since the days of commodore Perry.
I took a cross country bus from Shimoda to Dogashima on the western Izu coast. It was a nice ride, as the mountains and forests of Izu are very pretty. Unfortunately, public buses do not stop for photo ops!
In Dogashima, you can take an excursion boat to sight see along the coast, which I duly did. It was a fun and interesting trip. The coast is attractive, with lots of little islands [slightly reminiscent of Matsushima], and many natural caves.
a low arch
the interior of a cave
Next, I traveled to Shuzenji up in the interior. It is where Yoritomo and Masoko escaped to when her father opposed their marriage. It is the site of a old temple founded by Kobo Dashi. It also has the grave of Minamoto no Noriyori, a younger brother of Yoritomo's, obliged in 1194 to commit suicide, and of Yoritomo's son Yoriie. The latter was poisoned by order of his Hojo grandfather for showing too much independence as a young shogun. Clearly, being a brother of Yoritomo's and possible rival was dangerous. Yoshitsune had already died because of it. And then later the Hojo clan was avid for power and ruthless.
This is the view to the right from my balcony at the ryokan, overlooking the Katsura river/
and looking to the left. There is a small bamboo grove across the river.
The Arai ryokan where I stayed dates to the Meiji era and is very traditional. It has lovely buildings connected by bridges and galleries, with pretty gardens.
I will continue soon with Shuzenji.